By Kurt Campbell
It’s time to explore an often-overlooked treasure of Guyana: the South Rupununi.
Nestled in Region Nine (Upper Takutu-Upper Essequibo), this part of the country is a land of stark beauty, where vast savannahs meet towering mountains, and indigenous culture thrives.
It’s a place where nature, adventure, and culture intertwine like nowhere else in Guyana, and this year, it’s becoming the focus of an exciting new tourism circuit.
To take you on this journey I will begin in the early hours of Tuesday, November 26, at Wichabai Ranch—an eco-tourism haven that’s family-owned and operated by Justin and Erin, passionate hosts with a love for adventure.
It’s 5:30 am, and the sun rises majestically behind the mountains, painting the sky with shades of orange and gold. The light spills across the ranch, and the day begins with a sense of wonder.
Day breaks at Wichabai Ranch. (Photo: Kurt Campbell/ News Room – November 27, 2024)
Wichabai, however, is just one piece of the puzzle that is the South Rupununi. As we arrived the previous day, we’d already set foot on a new tourism path that stretches across the savannahs, from ranches to indigenous villages.
South Rupununi Savannahs near Wichabai Ranch (Photo: Rehanah Persaud/ November 26, 2024)
Day One: Morai Morai Ranch – where culture meets nature
Our adventure kicked off in Katoonarib, at the Morai Morai Ranch, where we were immediately embraced by the warmth of the local community.
As we joined the indigenous people in preparing cassava bread and learning the traditional art of arrow making, we were transported into a way of life that’s been preserved for generations.
The air was filled with the sounds of rustling leaves and the earth beneath our feet felt different from the rainforest experiences in the north – here, the trails were dustier, the sand crunching beneath our boots.
We even had the chance to taste tuma – a unique stew/broth made from fish and deer meat, lovingly prepared in a pot over an open flame. The flavours were rich and authentic, and the experience, from shooting arrows to fetching water from a hand-dug well, felt as immersive as it was educational.
The News Room’s Kurt Campbell fetches water from a hand-dug well at Morai Morai. (Photo: Rehanah Persaud/ November 26, 2024)
It was here we met Orville, whose mother works at the ranch, and Nicholas Cyril, affectionately known as ‘Uncle Bakes’, the ranch owner. Over lunch, Nicholas regaled us with tales of his life in the South Rupununi—stories of survival, culture, and the land that he holds dear.
Wichabai Ranch: Adventure and relaxation combined
After a day at Morai Morai, we journeyed to Wichabai Ranch, where adventure awaited. A hike up to a mountain viewpoint gave us sweeping vistas of the savannah, while the sight of capybaras cooling off in a nearby lake was the perfect moment to unwind. Swimming in the refreshing waters, with the mountains in the background, it felt like time had slowed down.
The highlight of the next morning was an early-morning trail walk, where the sky gradually brightened, revealing a landscape that was both familiar and foreign.
We walked through the tall grasses, the sound of leaves rustling in the breeze, while birds of every size and colour flitted above us.
South Rupununi Savannahs near Wichabai Ranch (Photo: Rehanah Persaud/ November 26, 2024)
Saddle Mountain: Horseback Riding and Scenic Views
After a picnic lunch at Saddle Mountain Ranch, we mounted our horses and set off to explore the range. Here, the land stretched out before us in all its golden glory, the savannah dotted with cattle, and the distant mountains standing like silent sentinels. Horseback riding through the rugged terrain provided a real taste of what life is like for the ranchers here.
Horseback riding at Saddle Mountain Ranch.
(Photo: Rehanah Persaud/ November 26, 2024)
It was clear to see that the South Rupununi is different from the North. While the North offers lush rainforests and river-based adventures, the South boasts open plains, wildlife conservation, and lifestyle-based experiences that connect travellers deeply with the land.
The South Rupununi Tourism Circuit: A work in progress
According to Kamrul Baksh, Director of the Guyana Tourism Authority, the South Rupununi is quickly catching up to the more well-known northern destinations.
“What distinguishes the product in the South is the unique blend of lifestyle, adventure, and conservation. You’ve got the vast savannahs, horse riding, and cattle ranching. It’s a completely different type of experience compared to the rainforest adventures of the North.”
Over the last three years, the Ministry of Tourism and partners like the GTA have worked hard to develop the South Rupununi Tourism Circuit. The effort has already led to investments in infrastructure, product development, and marketing, with a focus on authentic experiences such as traditional cassava bread making, arrow crafting, and wildlife conservation.
A vehicle drives on flat rocks in a small lake to get to Saddle Mountain
An Exciting Future Ahead
What sets this region apart isn’t just the natural beauty, but the way it’s integrated with the people and their culture. At each stop, we felt the sense of community—the genuine care and pride locals take in their way of life. It’s a destination that promises not only breathtaking views and adrenaline-filled experiences but also deep, cultural immersion that will leave you with a better understanding of this beautiful corner of the world.
The South Rupununi is a place where you can truly connect with the land, the people, and the wildlife. And with the South Rupununi Tourism Circuit developing at such a rapid pace, it’s only a matter of time before this hidden gem becomes the next big thing in Guyanese tourism.
So, pack your bags, leave the hustle and bustle behind, and venture into the wild, wide-open spaces of Guyana’s South Rupununi. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed.
The sun sets on Wichabai Ranch. (Photo: Kurt Campbell/ News Room – November 26, 2024)
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